Smoking is back: The favorites from Saint Laurent's Fall/Winter 2026-27 collection
SAINT LAURENT FALL/WINTER 2026-27
A collection epitomising power dressing.
There are two types of artistic directors when it comes to fashion. Those who rebel with their personal style and those who fully embrace the identity of the house they take on as invisible craftsmen. Anthony Vaccarello is probably somewhere in between. Consistent, almost reverent in his approach to Saint Laurent's lines and archives, he never disappoints with his collections.
SAINT LAURENT FALL/WINTER 2026-27
Vaccarello hadn't really realized it that the women's suit was already in his plans for the house's winter collection, but the intention was rather accidental.
"But since this past still haunts me, I feel I have an obligation to connect with it, with the history of the fashion house.However, I always try not to fall into the trap of nostalgia and to present something contemporary," he said and he proved this on Tuesday evening in Paris.
Sometimes strict, sometimes sensual, the Saint Laurent woman moves between geometric cuts and delicate fabrics, revealing to the gaze of others whatever she desires.
Last season's impressive evening gowns gave way to an army of architecturally designed suits—14 in total—which were fastened crosswise over the models' naked bodies. Sensuality is the ultimate eroticism, which seems to be Vaccarello's motto. True to his aesthetic obsessions, he once again plays with lace and its infinite possibilities.
Of course, oversized fur coats were a must, another tribute to Yves Saint Laurent's nighttime extravaganza, enhanced by carefully placed—and conspicuously large—jewelry. The tuxedo, of course, played the leading role.
The men's suit and women's suit may have passed into different hands, but Saint Laurent's tuxedo will always have something special. Quite simply because the cut is better.
SAINT LAURENT FALL/WINTER 2026-27
